Paris Revealed: Gwenn’s Favorites in the City of Light
By Gwenn Voelckers
Paris stole my heart.
My love affair with Paris began 20 years ago, when I made my first solo trip to the City of Light to celebrate my 50th birthday.
I spent 10 enchanting and unforgettable days there.
Helplessly smitten, I have returned to Paris every year since (except during COVID-19) to enjoy and embrace its extraordinary visual, cultural and culinary delights.
But why go back again and again? you might ask.
Because Paris — its history, art, architecture, lifestyle and joie de vivre, which translates literally to “joy of living” — is endlessly fascinating and inspiring. I never tire of it.
You’ve probably heard the expression “Americans live to work; the French work to live.” I side with the French! When I’m in Paris, I feel as if I’m living life to the fullest and I return home with renewed resolve to seize the day and appreciate every moment.
On my first visit, I spent my days exploring the city on foot, window shopping, immersing myself in the city’s café and culinary culture and visiting several of the famous landmarks, galleries and gardens.
While I highly recommend visiting the popular attractions — the Eiffel Tower, Louvre, Notre-Dame Cathedral (scheduled to reopen this December), Arc de Triomphe and Musee d’Orsay, to name a few — I encourage you to pace yourself. Choose quality experiences over quantity.
Remember that some of the best moments in travel come from taking time to slow down and savor the moment. And remember to follow your heart. I’m always chasing the authentic Parisian experiences, so that influences my choices and itinerary. You won’t find me in a medieval museum or the Catacombs.
What I love doing most in Paris is exploring its neighborhoods called “arrondissements” or districts. There are 20 in all and each has its own unique character and abundance of marvelous things to see and do.
My favorites
• The back streets of Montmartre: While the domed Sacre Coeur Basilica is a sight to behold in this popular hilltop neighborhood, it’s the winding, cobbled streets behind the basilica that captivate me. This storied former artists’ village was home to Van Gogh, Picasso and Renoir among others. Full of narrow alleys, studios and landmarks, this close-knit community is steeped in Montmartre’s bohemian subculture.
I return to Montmartre often to take walking tours and I discover something new every time. My go-to walking tour company is DiscoverWalks. The tours are free and led by knowledgeable (and entertaining) local guides, who welcome tips at the end of the walk.
They provide tours in almost every Paris neighborhood. Check ‘em out!
• Cruising the Seine: There’s nothing like it, especially on an evening cruise when your tour boat is approaching the Eiffel Tower. Just as night falls, the tower sparkles to life!
Thousands of glittering lights flash across the landmark for a few minutes, creating a mesmerizing, twinkling display that’s impossible not to love. It’s a must-see and in my opinion, best seen when you are on the water.
I prefer the smaller, no-frills guided boat tours over the large, pricey dinner cruises and recommend the affordable Vedettes du Pont Neuf tour company. It features live guides narrating the cruise to the Eiffel Tower and back, pointing out the shoreline landmarks all along the way.
• Hidden and not-so-hidden gardens: I won’t mince words, Paris can be intense (in a good way, of course!), but it can also be exhausting. When I need a break from the hustle and bustle, Paris’ gardens come to the rescue and offer welcome respite.
Hardly off the beaten path, my all-time favorite is Luxembourg Gardens. It’s always my first stop after arriving midday in Paris. I need to stretch my legs after a long flight and love to stroll through the garden and admire its beautifully manicured flower beds, elegant statues and tree-lined walkways.
I take a seat on one of the iconic benches overlooking the large pond and watch the kids sail their little wooden boats. I let out a long breath. Here at last. My second home.
On a smaller scale, I have two other favorite gardens: First, the Sculpture Garden at the Rodin Museum. It’s an oasis, a perfect place to enjoy a moment of peaceful contemplation among Rodin’s masterful works, including “The Thinker.”
And the other is the Place de Vosges in the Marais neighborhood. It is the oldest planned square in Paris and beloved by both tourists and locals. Meticulous gardens and gorgeous 17th century “townhouses for the elite” surround the square where people gather to picnic, shop and enjoy fine dining and buskers under the arched arcades.
• Biking in Paris and beyond: Biking can be such a fun and efficient way to see Paris. On my most recent trip, I found a new bike-touring company and gave it a try. Called Bike About Tours, they specialize in carefully planned routes through Paris’ charming back streets and local neighborhoods. I signed up for the “Hidden Paris” tour and enjoyed every single moment.
Did you know there is an uncovered Roman amphitheater in the heart of Paris? I didn’t. It’s now a public park, perfect for picnicking and bocce ball. I discovered this and so much more on the tour. Grab a helmet and be surprised!
If you love impressionist art, you’ll love the Fat Tire Bike Tours’ daylong adventure to Giverny (45 minutes outside Paris), where Claude Monet lived and painted his lovely “Water Lilies.” I’ve made this delightful bike trip three times and I will make it again.
A private bus takes you part way to Giverny through the beautiful French countryside where you’ll pick up the bikes, grab a picnic lunch and then take a comfortable ride to the estate. Words can’t describe how wonderful it is.
• Food shopping Parisian style: If you want to mingle with the locals and take a glimpse of everyday life in Paris, I recommend setting aside time on a Sunday morning to visit one or two of my favorite food markets. These pedestrian markets are unique, because they are designated artisan markets, protected by law to maintain their authenticity.
Each one specializes in offering high-quality, locally sourced goods. And they are frequented by locals, which enriches the entire experience. The markets are social hubs where neighbors gather to chat, exchange recipes, grab a cup of coffee and sample the best of what Paris has to offer.
My favorites, in no particular order, are: Rue Mouffetard, in the 5th arrondissement, a quaint market with a medieval vibe and many multicultural cafes and restaurants; Ru Cler, in the 7th arroundissement, a favorite among food lovers and connoisseurs with its colorful and tempting displays; and Rue des Martyrs, in the 9th arrondissement, one of the oldest and most historic market streets in Paris, revered for its wine, cheese and chocolate shops.
Bon appetit!
For me, Paris holds intrigue, excitement and the promise of profound, life-changing moments. If my favorites above have inspired you to add Paris to your bucket list, I hope the City of Light captures your heart as much as it has captured mine.
When I took my very first stroll, on my very first visit, I could easily have exclaimed, “You had me at bonjour!”
Gwenn Voelckers has mastered the art of living and traveling alone. She is the author of an essay collection titled “Alone and Content” and writes “Live Alone & Thrive,” a monthly column for In Good Health newspaper. She welcomes your comments and questions at gvoelckers@rochester.rr.com
Other Sights & Delights
I can’t leave Paris without . . .
• Riding the carousel in the Jardin des Tuileries
• Searching for small, informal family-run bistros that offer traditional French cuisine and regional wine
• At sunset, beholding the stunning stained-glass windows at Sainte Chapelle
• Poking around Le Marais’ charming narrow streets, trendy boutiques and museums
• Hunting for keepsakes in the small and sweet antique market at Porte de Vanves
• Relaxing in the exquisite tea garden within the La Grande Mosquée de Paris
• Scouring side streets and alleys for graffiti by Banksy, the elusive street artist
• Sampling an “inventive” macaron from Maison Mulot pastry shop, my sentimental favorite
• Enjoying a leisurely walk along Canal Saint-Martin, a haven of serenity
• Buying yet another pair of shoes in the grand and dazzling Galeries Lafayette on a rainy day
• On Sundays, browsing the exotic plant and bird markets on the Ile de La Cite
• Enjoying an espresso and great people-watching at the legendary Café de Flore.
• Window shopping at the posh Le Bon Marche on the Left Bank
• Wandering aimlessly to discover hidden gems, tucked-away courtyards, cozy cafes, covered passages and so many other unexpected delights!